Sunday, April 22, 2012

If it don't....it ain't....


Let’s take a detour and leave behind this colorful dimension of mordants and dyes.



Welcome to the quest that I have followed over the past few years in search of purity....a search that mixed with arrogance can turn into an obsession for perfection....

It all began in Mysore a while back.... with cashmere, stumbled over sandalwood, angora, lapis, wild silks of India, and other such fine things, propelled me to criss-cross the subcontinent on numerous occasions, and led me to Chidhiari a tiny village on the verge of the Rhotang Pass, where I found myself nose deep in a pool of natural colors........

The beginning is as good a place to start as any. Cashmere, my all-time favorite fiber, was also one of our first products. We worked hard for a few years on creating completely handspun (and handwoven of course), weft and warp fabrics, made of pure cashmere without the addition of any other fiber....The cashmere fiber is one of a kind. Short, full of twists and turns, it is soft, capricious and very active and all it wants to do is to free itself from the prison of the yarn, curl up and fall asleep on the surface of the fabric....The process is called pilling and to an untrained eye, and 'market driven expectation' (thanks again davi) is undesirable. Manufacturers go to great length to eliminate it, but in the process the original is so diluted that it is lost....I myself, in my own dark obsession for perfection, went to great pains to strongly encourage the spinners whom I work with to handspin a yarn that would not pill....It is impossible....If it don’t pill, it ain’t cashmere.

Second example, runs along similar lines, and to make a long story short.......If it don’t shed, it ain’t angora...

The world of natural materials offers many other examples of this phenomena,  but let's take a short cut and  arrive at the end of my quest, my daily world, the world of color....It is a beautiful place, filled with magical processes, a place where I finally feel at home, and am privileged to be a part of...But here too I see the darkness creeping in. Instead of humbly appreciating the brief moment of beauty expressed by natural dyes on my fibers, I want to fix them, and hold on to them forever.....

We have managed to produce carbon copies of true colors, just like the mills in Ludhiana and Srinagar have produced copies of true cashmere, we call them fixed dyes....But they are merely copies, life devoid imitations of true color, with no capacity of evolution and transformation, they are dead.

Hopefully the lessons from the past have sunk in and I can step back with wonder and appreciate the true nature of color and let that nature unfold before my eyes, instead of turning a copy, a cheap forgery, into an ideal....


.....if it don't fade, ah...you know the rest......

I wanted to do this before, never really found the chance, but this might be the perfect place to introduce an incomplete list of teachers who have helped me in this quest. First of all there is Rudolf Steiner, whose outlook on life, after years of waiting and long periods of separation has suddenly and unexpectedly woven itself into my work, next comes Sung Hyun Baek, from wherever he is now and whatever and under whatever name he teaches these days, showed me 30 years ago that alchemy and magic are possible even in today's world, then there is Sanjay who alerted me to the problem and set me off on the quest, Sri Kanth in Mysore who showed me my first sandalwood tree, Ric Peigler, in Texas whose love for wild silks is second to none, the numerous dealers of Jaipur who put up with hours of questioning and introduced me to coral, turquoise, lapis and other fine natural fixed colors, Rupindrath in Patan who opened all the doors to the Sacred Art of Nepali gilded bronzes and the magical studios of the craftsmen of Patan, Davi in Mexico whose nose for natural dyeing, and especially for handcrafts in general is so refined that it contributed to my 9 months of hibernation, during which time I tried to come to terms with this calling, and finally babydodo whose love and support have fueled this quest even at the points where it turned into an obsession.

Now we can leave this self-reflection for awhile and make our way back to a happier road paved with light, colors, crystals, metals and flowers. I vaguely hear the bells of a ceremony in the distance, but am still not certain.....

Speaking of angora and cashmere and other soft things, I just could not resist....Here is Eloise, our granddaughter again, she is our star...


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